Laser Hair removal – all you need to know

What is laser hair removal?

Laser hair reduction is simply one method or process by which unwanted hair is removed. It is the use of light to destroy the hair follicle. Laser hair reduction has been used since the mid-1990’s and there are now many different types of lasers and light treatments available and the range of conditions they can treat is ever-growing. There are Ruby lasers, Nd:YAG lasers, Alexandrite Lasers, Diode lasers and IPL (Intense pulsed light – which is not actually a laser, however often thought of as one).

Before deciding which type of laser is best for your hair removal, you will need to know a little about hair growth and how lasers work to remove unwanted hair.

Hair has three stages of growth and grows at different times and rates. There is an active growth phase (anagen) where the hair follicle is attached to the underlying skin and receives a blood supply. The catagen phase is a transitional phase whereby the hair follicle begins to die and enters the third phase known as the resting phase or telogen phase. This is where the hair is inactive and can easily fall out.

LASER is an acronym for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. A laser, (or machine which produces a laser beam) can emit a specific wavelength of light and focusing this light so that it hits a specific target (ideally the hair follicle).

Lasers work by converting the light to heat. The light travels down the hair shaft and the pigment (melanin) within the hair follicle absorbs this light and converts it to heat. In turn, the heat affects the hair follicle and prevents hair growth. If the temperature at the bulb of the hair follicle reaches 70 degrees, the hair follicle can be destroyed.

Darker and thicker hair contains more pigment, and so will absorb more energy and will be more effectively treated by laser. This is why you will be asked not to pluck or wax any hairs before laser hair removal – we want the hair follicle to be intact to ensure that treatment is effective. Fine hairs will be harder to treat as they do not have as much pigment in their follicle.

Only hairs in the anagen or active growth phase, will be treated successfully, however, hairs do not all grow at the same time or rate. 20-40% of hairs on your body at any time will be in this active growth phase. Since there is no way of knowing what phase your hair is in, we recommend a course of treatments spaced out about 6-8 weeks apart to provide optimal results.

Since the hair follicle requires pigment to be effectively treated, white, grey, blonde and most red hair cannot be treated with laser as they won’t respond. Alternatively, darker skin which contains a lot of melanin (either by tanning, or heredity) will be more difficult to treat without increasing the risk of complications. This is because the laser cannot distinguish between the melanin in the hair follicle and the melanin in the skin and will heat the skin as well as the follicle leading to an increased risk of burning.

In order to treat darker skin types, the laser intensity or fluence will need to be reduced in order to prevent burning. If you are prone to tanning, it may be better to consider having laser treatments over winter when your skin is at it’s palest. Also, planning your laser sessions around holidays in the sun – ideally you should wait 2-3 weeks after laser treatments before going in the sun, so consider this when booking treatments.

How do lasers differ?

There are 4 main types of laser used to treat unwanted hair. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Nd:YAG – is ideal for darker skin types, however, can require more treatments to achieve the same results as other lasers. Can be very effective for vascular lesions and pigment (also tattoo removal if q-switched).

Alexandrite – has a shorter wavelength, so is quick to treat large areas such as backs, chests, and legs, however, it can result in discolouration of darker skin types.

Ruby – one of the oldest types of lasers used in hair removal, not as effective compared to newer laser technology.

Diode – one of the newest lasers used today. It has a longer wavelength which means it can be safely used on darker skin types. It has a quick repetition rate, so can be used to treat large areas such as backs, chests, legs etc.

IPL – not technically a laser, but Intense Pulsed Light. This means that the light emitted is of varying wavelengths and can affect and damage multiple structures below the dermis. If used by unskilled practitioners, can increase risks. Can be used for other indications such as skin rejuvenation, pigment and vascular redness.

At LaserCare, we use a diode laser for our hair removal. We also have other lasers we use for different indications. We can treat a wide range of skin and hair types and do more than just hair removal. Our treatments are delivered by skilled and accredited laser operators to give you peace of mind and know that you are in good hands. A complimentary consultation is recommended to help our staff to assess your needs and recommend the best treatment for you.